Diversity on Display: Visual Narratives of Fashionable Bodies in Vogue Italia

Abstract

This article explores how fashion, as a cultural system, constructs and circulates dominant imaginaries of the body, focusing on the visual narratives presented on the covers of Vogue Italia. Moving beyond a purely esthetic or biological notion of beauty, this study adopts an embodiment perspective to analyze how socio-cultural contexts shape representations of bodies, identities, and subjectivities within fashion media. Through a qualitative longitudinal analysis of Vogue Italia covers spanning over sixty years, this study explores how visible diversity is mediated through the visual and symbolic codes of fashion, revealing significant changes in esthetic sensibility and editorial strategies throughout the course of time. Rather than interpreting these representations as a straightforward response to growing demands for inclusion, we argue that fashion’s engagement with diversity operates through a mimetic logic that simultaneously displays alterity while reasserting existing hierarchies of power, desirability, and visibility. The results suggest that editorial choices have been decisive in determining the visual trajectory of the magazine, sometimes anticipating broader cultural debates on gender, race, and identity. We contend that Vogue Italia does not simply reflect social transformations, but actively contributes to shaping a cultural script in which inclusion becomes both commodified and contained. Ultimately, this study highlights the ambivalent role of fashion media in negotiating inclusion and exclusion through the visual construction of bodies emphasizing how the language of diversity can either challenge or reproduce hegemonic visual imaginaries.