Forced Labour and Ethical Trade in the Indian Garment Industry

Abstract

The International Labour Organization (ILO) has acknowledged a focus beyond the state — on the private sector as a major contributor to contemporary forms of forced labour. This can be partly attributed to the recognition of the increase in labour exploitation present in global production networks/chains (ILO, 2013). The chapter examines the case of Sumangali camp workers in the textile garment industry in Tamil Nadu, South India. We explore how key actors, local and international labour rights non-governmental organisations (NGOs), and a multi-stakeholder initiative engage in the issues of bonded and forced labour. Our analysis draws on field research conducted in India between 2011 and 2014 in the garment sector, as part of a broader research project exploring the effectiveness of non-judicial redress mechanisms to human rights grievances. In the case of the garment and textile sector in Tamil Nadu, the power imbalance between the thousands of young women and child workers in garment and textile factories and the employers and global brands is significant. The case explores characteristics of local and international campaign mobilisation and the impact on workers’ sense of agency. Further, we seek to understand the responses by corporations through the multi-stakeholder initiative actions on forced labour.