Book Review: Herbal Principles in Cosmetics: Properties and Mechanisms of Action

Abstract

This book forms part of the series Traditional Herbal Medicines for Modern Times, and includes cosmeceuticals used in traditional Chinese medicine, Japanese Kampo medicine, and Indian Ayurvedic practices (Burlando et al., 2010). Consumer demand for cosmetic ingredients from natural sources, with comparable efficacy and safety features of synthetic ingredients, is becoming progressively more popular. In the past, cosmetics were restricted to aesthetic and decorative applications; however, modern cosmeceuticals are defined as cosmetics with the ability to alter skin functionality and improve health, eliminating any ambiguity between cosmetology and dermatology (Taofiq et al., 2018). Chapter 1 of this book describes skin morphology, cell types, and structural features responsible for maintaining healthy skin. Chapter 2 focuses on the major phytochemical classes, their synthesis in plant cells, and their medicinal uses. Briefly, fatty acids and triglycerides act as emollients and emulsifiers providing the skin with moisture and adding to the waterproofing effect by interacting with the lipophilic fraction of the skin. Terpenoids commonly found in the essential oils of plants have preservative effects due to their ability to cause damage to prokaryote cell walls. They are often also used as antioxidants and for flavoring. Phenolic compounds from plants act as UV filters due to the presence of benzene ring structures. Alkaloids such as vincristine and vinblastine act as chemotherapeutic agents by affecting microtubule formation in cancer cells. Carbohydrates such as glucans act as skin moisturizing agents by preventing epidermal water loss. O-glycosides are cardioactive compounds that can prevent heart failure by stimulating the sodium/potassium ATPase pump. Hydroxy acids increase skin desquamation and exfoliate the skin for cell renewal. Chapter 3 provides valuable information to potential formulators searching for emulsifiers, humectants, and emollients from natural sources by arranging the plant species alphabetically using their common names. It includes herbal preservatives and agents enhancing skin penetration. Valuable insights into the side effects of topical formulations, even of those