Centella asiatica (L.) Urb. in skin health and cosmeceuticals: mechanisms, clinical evidence, and advanced delivery systems

Abstract

Centella asiatica (L.) Urb. is increasingly used in dermatology and cosmeceuticals for wound repair, barrier support, scar modulation, and photoaging. This review synthesizes evidence (2016-May 2025) across molecular mechanisms relevant to cutaneous aging, preclinical efficacy, human clinical outcomes, and delivery systems that improve dermal bioavailability. The principal triterpenoid saponins (asiaticoside, madecassoside) and their aglycones (asiatic acid, madecassic acid), together with polyphenols, act across complementary pathways, including transforming growth factor beta (TGF-β)/small mothers against decapentaplegic proteins (Smad)-driven extracellular matrix (ECM) anabolism; nuclear factor kappa B (NF-κB) and Janus kinase/signal transducer and activator of transcription 3 (JAK/STAT3) attenuation; mitigation of oxidative/glycation stress; and photoprotection to improve histologic and biophysical skin endpoints. Human studies, though small and heterogeneous, report improvements in hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), elasticity, and wrinkle appearance, as well as benefits in scar parameters, with good topical tolerability. Advanced carriers such as transfersomes, liposomes, niosomes, phytosomes, nanoemulsions, hydrogels, microneedles, and nanofibers enhance skin penetration, stability, and residence of bioactive compounds from C. asiatica.