Particle trajectories in solitary water waves

Abstract

Analyzing a free boundary problem for harmonic functions in an infinite planar domain, we prove that in a solitary water wave each particle is transported in the wave direction but slower than the wave speed. As the solitary wave propagates, all particles located ahead of the wave crest are lifted, while those behind it experience a downward motion, with the particle trajectory having asymptotically the same height above the flat bed. © 2007 American Mathematical Society.