Dualistic Properties of Cosmetic Formulations Based on Phenylpropanoids from Ajuga reptans

Abstract

Our continued interest in the research and development of cosmetic active ingredients deriving from natural sources led us to investigate the potential of a purified extract of Ajuga reptans, a plant belonging to the family Labiatae and known for its traditional use in skin healing. The extracts deriving from a biotechnology platform are composed by meristematic cell culture, developed in the frame of a NTFP (non-timber forest product) project, and characterized by high content in phenylpropanoid, of which teupolioside represents the majority component. The latter is a phenylpropanoid glucoside, structurally correlated echinacoside and known in the literature for the antioxidant properties. This study was conducted with the purpose of evaluating the applicability of the Ajuga reptans extract within different cosmetic formulations. In particular, Photochemiluminescence (PCL) was used to proof the antioxidant capacity of cosmetic formulations containing the product, in relation to the change of the title of teupolioside. Furthermore, UVA and UVB filtering properties were also investigated. The results of the study showed relevantly antioxidant capacity of the finished formulation against superoxide anion, which is the main reactive oxygen species responsible for skin aging and significant synergic capacities to filter UV radiation.