A Novel Dermocosmetic Routine Containing Vitamin B3 and 2-Mercaptonicotinyl Glycine Significantly Improves Melasma After 3 Months of Daily Use

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Abstract

Introduction: Melasma is a chronic refractory pigmentation disorder. Kligman triple (KT) formula is the gold standard. A dermocosmetic (DC) serum containing vitamin B3 and 2-mercaptonicotinyl glycine has been developed for melasma. This study assessed the benefits of DC serum compared to KT in melasma. Material and Methods: A randomized, single-blind 6-month study was conducted in women with melasma. Subjects were randomized to Group A (morning: serum; evening: cream, for 6 months) or to Group B (1st 3 months: morning: skin hydrating gel; evening: KT, followed by 3 months of DC routine regimen); all subjects applied a sunscreen with an SPF 50+ twice daily. Assessments included MASI, mMASI, IGA, skin hydration, radiance and fine wrinkles, tolerance, and quality of life (QoL) using MELASQOL. Results: Ninety-one women aged 44 ± 6 years of Phototypes III (30%) and IV (36%) were recruited. Both regimens significantly (p < 0.05) improved MASI after 3 months. A clinically relevant difference in favor of KT was observed. Three months after the switch, both Group A (38.1%) and Group B (41.2%) provided a similar significant (p < 0.05) percentage reduction of MASI score, with no between-group difference. The mMASI and IGA showed similar results. QoL and skin hydration significantly (p < 0.05) improved in both groups after 6 months. Skin radiance and fine wrinkles also improved. Global tolerance was better with the DC routine. Conclusions: Both DC routine and KT significantly improved melasma after 3 months of use. DC further improved melasma when replacing KT for 3 further months, with similar results when used alone for 6 months.

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Rocio, J., Kovylkina, N., Cestari, T., Feiges, M. F., Fernandes, E., Deloche-Bensmaine, C., … Passeron, T. (2025). A Novel Dermocosmetic Routine Containing Vitamin B3 and 2-Mercaptonicotinyl Glycine Significantly Improves Melasma After 3 Months of Daily Use. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 24(10). https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.70476

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