Cross-shore distribution of sediment texture under breaking waves along low-wave-energy coasts

Abstract

Sediment samples were collected with streamer traps at different elevations in the water column and across the surf zone. Beach profiles and breaking waves were measured together with the sediment sampling. The experiments were conducted on beaches with various sediment composition ranging from well-sorted fine sand to poorly sorted gravel and shell debris. The cross-shore variation of sediment mean grain size ranged from less than 1 to significant variation of up to 3.5