The runup of solitary waves

  • Synolakis C
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Abstract

See, stats, and : http : / / www . researchgate . net / publication / 231912199 The ARTICLE Impact : 2 . 29 : 10 . 1017 / S002211208700329X CITATIONS 360 DOWNLOADS 683 VIEWS 158 1 : Costas. Synolakis University 249 , 338 SEE Available : Costas . Synolakis Retrieved : 13 This is a study of the runup of solitary waves on plane beaches . An approximate theory is presented for non - breaking waves and an asymptotic result is derived for the maximum runup of solitary waves . A series of laboratory experiments is described to support the theory . It is shown that the linear theory predicts the maximum runup satisfactorily , and that the nonlinear theory describes the climb of solitary waves equally well . Different runup regimes are found to exist for the runup of breaking and non - breaking waves . A breaking criterion is derived for determining whether a solitary wave will break as it climbs up a sloping beach , and a different criterion is shown to apply for determining whether a wave will break during rundown . These results are used to explain some of the existing empirical runup relationships .

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Authors

  • Costas Emmanuel Synolakis

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