Computation of nonlinear wave kinematics during propagation and runup on a slope

Abstract

Applies the boundary integral equation method to the computation of the interaction between highly nonlinear solitary waves and plane steep and gentle slopes. Kinematics of the waves is calculated during propagation and runup on a slope. In particular, the internal velocity field above the slope and the pressure force on the slope are computed in detail during runup and rundown of the wave. The results show features of the wave flow such as jet-like up-rush, stagnation point and breaking during backwash. A comparison is made with accurate experimental results (runup, surface elevations), with other fully nonlinear solutions, and also with the predictions of the Shallow Water Wave Equation. The results show that the BEM used here is capable of accurately describing the wave flow and interaction with a plane slope (2.88deg to 90deg), in great detail. (A)