The writer and the couturière: Authorship and creative industry in the 1870s

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Abstract

This chapter considers the significance of the emerging profession of the dress designer in constructions of authorial identity in the 1870s. Known as the couturière, this figure came to represent a new type of artist professional that was emerging in the second half of the nineteenth century. Focusing specifically on the model of authorship constructed by the popular Victorian author Margaret Oliphant in her Autobiography and her 1876 novel Phoebe, Junior, this chapter explores how in the 1870s, the writing of novels was aligned with the creation of fashionable garments as the figure of the couturière came to epitomise for writers like Oliphant a form of professional creative labour that offered an alternative to the more masculine construct of the isolated literary genius.

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Zakreski, P. (2020). The writer and the couturière: Authorship and creative industry in the 1870s. In Fashion and Authorship: Literary Production and Cultural Style from the Eighteenth to the Twenty-First Century (pp. 207–230). Palgrave Macmillan. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-26898-5_9

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