DEVELOPMENT OF A HIGH-RESOLUTION NEARSHORE WAVE FORECASTING/HINDCASTING SYSTEM FOR THE ITALIAN COASTS

Abstract

This paper describes a research aimed at developing a high-resolution nearshore wave forecasting/hindcasting system for the Italian coasts. Data recorded by buoys located in shallow water are compared with hindcasted data. The model uses the results of the well-tested large scale meteorological forecasting system named 'Idro-meteo-mare' (SIMM) managed by ISPRA, the Italian Agency for the Environmental Protection and Research, as wind input for WAM and SWAN models. Two different approaches are used for the Adriatic and the Tyrrhenian/Ligurian Sea. In the first eastern basin two/three SWAN nested grids have been used, while in the second western basins two WAM nested grids and a finer SWAN grid have been used. Both methodologies have shown a good accuracy and and a reasonable level of efficiency.