Water wave kinematics: state of the art and future research needs

Abstract

Presents a state-of-the-art review of water wave kinematic prediction and research needs. Examines laboratory work on regular and irregular waves (horizontal and sloping bottom). Discusses field studies of nearly regular waves, and wave directionality (second order and extreme waves). The study of wave/current interaction considers the near free surface interaction of kinematics with structures. Research is needed on surf zone behaviour such as rip currents and beach cusps. (C.J.U.)