Beach cut in relation to surf zone morphodynamics.

Abstract

This paper, is aimed at elucidating, qualitatively, three aspects of the beach erosion and beach stability problem: (1) What are the major modes of subaerial beach cut and how do they depend on the morphodynamic state of the beach and surf zone? (2) What surf-zone processes may act to determine the possible seaward transport of the eroded material to the outer surf zone and hence aggravate the severity of erosion? (3) What is the consequent relationship between relative erosion hazard, beach mobility and morphodynamic state? The concepts and examples presented have been synthesized from an extensive set of direct field observations on the high wave energy, microtidal coast Southeastern and Southern Australia. (from paper)