The description of gravity waves propagating on the water surface is considered from a historical point of view, with specific emphasis on the development of a theoretical framework and equations of motion for long waves in shallow water. This provides the foundation for a subsequent discussion about tsunami wave propagation and run-up on a sloping beach, and in particular the role of wave dispersion for this problem. Wave tank experiments show that wave dispersion can play a significant role for the propagation and wave transformation of wave signals that include some higher frequency components. However, the maximum run-up height is less sensitive to dispersive effects, suggesting that run-up height can be adequately calculated by use of non-dispersive model equations.
CITATION STYLE
Torsvik, T., Abdalazeez, A., Dutykh, D., Denissenko, P., & Didenkulova, I. (2019). Dispersive and Nondispersive Nonlinear Long Wave Transformations: Numerical and Experimental Results (pp. 41–60). https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-29951-4_3
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