A nonlinear three-dimensional Lagrangian theory is presented for prediction of kinematics in the crests of gravity sea waves. The theory is compared with measurements made in laboratory experiments, and may be used to calculate wave loads and slamming caused by freak waves. Ten freak waves have been measured on the Norwegian Continental Shelf. In two cases, two freak waves occurred in rapid succession within the same wave group. Nine of the ten freak waves occurred without any influence from the sea bottom. (A)
CITATION STYLE
Kjeldsen, S. P. (1990). Breaking waves. PROC. NATO ADVANCED RESEARCH WORKSHOP ON WATER WAVE KINEMATICS, SERIES E: APPLIED SCIENCES, MOLDE, NORWAY, MAY 22-25, 1989 }E, 178, 1990, 453–473. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-94-009-0531-3_29
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