NEARSHORE CIRCULATION

Abstract

Studies of nearshore circulation were initiated at Scripps Institution during World War II. A method of estimating the velocity of longshore currents from known wave conditions on straight beaches with parallel contours was devised by Munk and Traylor (1945) and later revised by Putnam, Munk and Traylor (1949). Their methods were based on energy and momentum considerations which were applied to the following two types of observations: (1) field observations of longshore currents along the straight beach at Oceanside, California made by Munk and Traylor (1945), and (2) laboratory measurements conducted at the Department of Engineering, University of California.