THE USE OF ADV IN WAVE FLUMES: GETTING MORE INFORMATION ABOUT WAVES

Abstract

This article discusses the advantages of measuring wave orbital velocities in coastal two-dimensional physical models in addition to free surface profiles. A brief presentation of linear theory for partial standing wave is made and early experimental works on this subject are reviewed. Since 2005, additional experiments have been conducted on wave flumes in Brazil (INPH, IPH/UFRGS) and in Portugal (LNEC), in order to characterize wave patterns in terms of velocity data obtained by ADVs. A few questions are posed in the conclusion of the article, which aim at suggesting special care on the interpretation of velocity data, as used today, as well as proposing further research on the subject.