A Different Path of Industrial Development? Ethiopia’s Apparel Export Sector

Abstract

This chapter provides an analysis of Ethiopia’s apparel export sector, based on intensive field research carried out in recent years. The chapter begins with an overview of the sector, focussing on firms, products and trade relations. Afterwards, the integration of Ethiopia’s textile and apparel production into global value chains is assessed with regard to diverse types of ownership and a proactive industrial policy, which comprises a wide range of means such as access to bank loans and foreign exchange, strategic investment promotion, industrial parks, sector-specific institutes and backward and forward linkages. This also reveals significant differences from other, less successful apparel exporters in sub-Saharan Africa, and leads to a discussion of achievements and obstacles in (functional, process and product) upgrading and localisation processes. The authors conclude by summarising what Ethiopia has achieved, and which challenges and shortcomings the country’s apparel export sector still faces.