Omani Men's National Dress: Displaying Personal Taste, Asserting National Identity

Abstract

The subject of men's national dress and its relationship to national identity in the Arab Gulf states has, with few exceptions, rarely been addressed in dress studies. This paper offers an introduction to the cultural biography and social life of men's national dress in Muscat, Oman, through an exploration of the ways in which national dress asserts Oman's identity as an historical imperial power in the western Indian Ocean, the role of men's dress in state discourse that distinguishes Omanis from other Arab Gulf citizens with shared dress elements, and the ways in which elements of these outfits express personal taste and reveal modern consumption patterns. Such "foreign" elements as the kumma (cap) from East Africa and the massar (headcloth) from South Asia are combined with "local" elements of dishdasha (long tunic) and bisht (open robe), worn throughout the Arabian Gulf, in a cultural authentication process that results in a distinct Omani style. Recent years have witnessed growing academic interest in the Arab Gulf region's culture and heritage , amplifying ideas regarding "nation," "citizenship," and "national identity" in the young Gulf nation-states. 1 The discovery of oil and the region's subsequent wealth, combined with the independence of former British protectorates, have contributed significantly to academic discussions of international relations, security, and oil politics. Both the recent economic successes and the potential downfalls of booming Gulf cities have called international attention to the increased migration that is flooding the region with both skilled expatriates and unskilled laborers. These international and regional themes are relevant to the Sultanate of Oman, situated on the southeastern corner of the Arabian Peninsula, facing the Arabian Sea and the Indian Ocean. Both this geographical location and the country's long history of trade connections play significant roles in defining how Omani citizens and residents distinguish themselves from the national identity discourses of their Gulf neighbors. This includes the nineteenth-century Omani empire, spanning the Indian Ocean from East Africa to South Asia, the history of Ibadhi Islam in the country, and, most recently, the nation's distinct foreign policy. Omanis also cite the importance of independence from major Western colonial influence and the guidance of a benevolent monarch as legitimate distinctions. 2 This paper serves as an introductory discussion of the ways in which national identity is symbolized and embodied in men's dress in the Omani capital, Muscat. The subject of dress