Physicochemical properties of selected compounds used as ultraviolet filters in cosmetics

Abstract

An ultrafiolet filter is defined as a substance, mixture, or material that blocks or absorbs radiation in the UV range, and its key purpose is to protect the skin from the harmful effects of radiation. Consumer concern is mainly regarding organic filters and the frequent problems with their low photostability, which is highly undesirable in terms of safety. The aim of this work was to discuss the term “photostability” and to assess the safety of the three most popular compounds classified as ultraviolet filters. Cited studies and issued opinions by Scientific Committees on Customer Safety confirm the safety for human health of Avobenzone, Oxybenzone and Octinoxate in strictly defined maximum concentrations. Side effects of these filters, like accumulation in the bloodstream, may occur after prolonged use. In order to improve the level of photostability of Avobenzone and Octinoxate the following methods are used: the use of photostabilizers and excited state quenchers, encapsulation of the molecule in micelles or the addition of antioxidants such as vitamin C. Although these compounds do not pose a serious threat to human health, two of them (Oxybenzone and Octinoxate) have a negative impact on aquatic ecosystems.