Eulerian flow velocities in the swash zone: Field data and model predictions

Abstract

Measurements of Eulerian flow velocity obtained within the swash zone on a relatively steep beach face (gradient 1:23) are compared with an extended ballistic swash model. The model only requires a friction factor, beach slope and terminal bore velocity as input. The following model predictions matched well with observations: (1) The maximum Eulerian flow velocity is the shoreline velocity when it arrives at the fixed point of interest on the beach face; (2) at any location the time of flow reversal occurs prior to the shoreline reaching its maximum landward excursion; (3) the maximum flow velocity in the backwash is the velocity recorded as the shoreline recedes past the fixed point of interest (and this is less than the maximum uprush velocity); and (4) the duration of the uprush flow is shorter than the duration of the backwash flow. Previous studies have already confirmed that the ballistic swash model (including friction) can accurately predict shoreline motion and maximum run-up on steep beaches. This study shows that it is similarly successful in predicting Eulerian flow velocities during individual swash events. The model does not presently account for interacting swash, however, and so may be less appropriate on gently sloping beaches. Copyright 2004 by the American Geophysical Union.