Modeling of coastal waves and hydrodynamics

Abstract

This chapter presents an overview of the available methods for modeling coastal waves. First, an overview of the relevant coastal processes, from shoaling to turbulent mixing, is provided to establish a basis to compare the various modeling approaches. The bulk of the discussion centers on modeling wind waves and includes a brief overview of the linear and analytical theory available to quantify coastal transformation, and then follows with a summary of spectral and phase-resolving approaches. Modeling long waves is discussed next, with a focus on tsunami simulation. Finally, the chapter summarizes techniques to couple the various models and reviews recent advances in the topic.