Pengaruh Suhu dan Lama Pencelupan Benang Katun pada Pewarnaan Alami dengan Ekstrak Gambir (Uncaria gambir Roxb)

Abstract

Natural dyes re-extraction of raw gambier was used as a dye on cotton yarn. Al2 (SO4)3, FeSO4 and CaO was used as a mordant with post-mordanting method. Dyeing process was done through a few stages; re-extracting of raw gambier, bleaching of cotton yarn, dyeing with gambier solution extract, mordanting with post-mordanting method, and finishing. Dyeing process was carried out at temperature of 30, 50, and 70⁰C with dyeing time 5, 15, and 25 minutes. Analysis of tannin content and particle size was conducted on raw gambier, gambier solution extract and remaining of dyeing solution. Cotton yarn which had been dyed with extracts of gambier evaluated its tensile strength, elongation, shrink yarn, intensity, color direction, and color fastness. The result showed that the hidhest color streght was obtained at 70⁰C dyeing and 25 minutes dyeing time using CaO mordant. Color fastness to 40⁰C washing with the use of CaO modant was good (4). The value of rubbing and light fastness was good until very good (4-5) for all treatments. All treatments with the same mordant shown to have similar of color direction visually, however quantitatively each of sample had a different significant on intensity and direction of colors.