DRGENS SN WIR VS NVT SCHAME – NO SHAME IN BRAIDING 15TH CENTURY FINGERLOOP BRAIDS FROM LENGBERG CASTLE

Abstract

Based on the 15th century textile finds of braided laces from Lengberg Castle, east Tyrol, this paper explores the technique of fingerloop braiding and gives instructions on how these laces were made. Fingerloop braiding is an old technique of unknown origin found almost worldwide where threads are used paired as loops. The laces achieved by this technique were often used as purse strings ending in fringes and knots or adorned with metal chapes at each end in order to use them for fastening clothes. As organic matter decays, these lace chapes are often the only parts that survived the centuries and are found frequently during archaeological excavations. Yet fingerloop braids were not only used for fastening but also sewn onto other fabrics as decorative elements. In these cases no metal chapes remain to bear testimony to their former existence. Several textiles decorated in this manner have been found at Lengberg and a closer look at other surviving medieval textiles also reveal these laces.