Effects of Waves and Currents

Abstract

We have seen that the morphology of ocean margins is largely determined by tectonics and sediment supply (Chap. 3), and we have reviewed the various types of sediments involved in building margins in the previous chapter (Chap. 4). We now turn to the all-important role of water motion in determining the distribution of sediments on the seafloor. A first impression of this role can be gained from contemplating Fig. 5.1, which illustrates the redistribution of sediment supplied to the sea by a river in a setting typical for Southern California. To be sure, the water motions indicated in the graph are not the only ones that need to be dealt with, as we shall see.