Mathematical modelling of short waves in surf zone

Abstract

Uses the Boussinesq approach to model the propagation of breaking waves. Outlines numerical solution techniques, noting corrections necessary for the truncation error and stability aspects. Shows how information about the breaking point and turbulence conditions may be obtained. The eddy viscosity coefficient in the wake region is considered to be proportional to the wave dissipation rate in a moving bore, while in the mixing layer region the Prandtl mixing length hypothesis is applied. Obtains an expression for total eddy viscosity coefficient in a fixed point of the breaking zone. (C.J.U.)