Hamiltonian description of ocean waves and freak waves

0Citations
Citations of this article
2Readers
Mendeley users who have this article in their library.

You may have access to this PDF.

Abstract

Freak wave generation and decay is discussed in the context of the Hamiltonian description of ocean waves. In linear theory the probability distribution function (p.d.f.) of the surface elevation is given by the Normal distribution, while for finite amplitude waves there are, for extreme events, always deviations from the Normal, giving finite skewness and excess kurtosis. These deviations are caused by the presence of the bound waves and, in case of almost one-dimensional propagation, by non-resonant four-wave interactions.

Cite

CITATION STYLE

APA

Janssen, P. A. E. M. (2016). Hamiltonian description of ocean waves and freak waves. In Lecture Notes in Physics (Vol. 926, pp. 117–157). Springer Verlag. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-39214-1_5

Register to see more suggestions

Mendeley helps you to discover research relevant for your work.

Already have an account?

Save time finding and organizing research with Mendeley

Sign up for free