Morphological, nanomechanical and cellular structural characterization of human hair and conditioner distribution using torsional resonance mode with an atomic force microscope

Abstract

Characterization of the cellular structure and chemical and physical properties of hair are essential to develop better cosmetic products and advance the biological and cosmetic sciences. Although the morphology of the fine cellular structure of human hair has traditionally been investigated using scanning electron microscopy and transmission electron microscopy, atomic force microscopy can be used for characterization in ambient conditions without requiring specific sample preparations and surface treatment. In this study, the tapping and torsional resonance modes in an atomic force microscope are compared for measurements of stiffness and viscoelastic properties. The materials were mapped using amplitude and phase angle imaging. The torsional resonance mode showed advantages in resolving the in-plane (lateral) heterogeneity of materials. This mode was used for investigating and characterizing the fine cellular structure of human hair. Various cellular structures (such as the cortex and the cuticle) of human hair and fine sublamellar structures of the cuticle, such as the A-layer, the exocuticle, the endocuticle and the cell membrane complex were easily identified. The distribution and thickness of conditioner on the treated hair surface affects the tribological properties of hair. The thickness of the conditioner was estimated using force distance measurements with an atomic force microscope. © 2005 The Royal Microscopical Society.