Innovation and intellectual property: Creating value and cultural currency in fashion products

Abstract

This paper explores the creation of value and cultural currency in innovative and artisanal fashion products through the lens of intellectual property; looking at the importance of embedding intellectual property thinking into an enterprise's business strategy. Case studies of fashion collaborations and co-creative business projects explore how tangible and intangible elements are managed.To date, the vital role intellectual property plays in the value creation of such products has not been explored or mapped. This is due to Euro-centric business models of fashion brands positioning themselves as tastemakers and key decision-makers in the final product design in most market segments. Euro-centric fashion design and low-cost manufacturing in developing countries has sometimes inadvertently resulted in cultural appropriation, and the value generated by the maker or creator has been subsumed. This paper is useful for small-scale creative enterprises and academics to identify and leverage intellectual property as a business strategy to underpin value creation in fashion and design collaborations. The growth of design collaborations, localisation in fashion consumption and the demand for transparency in supply chains have strengthened the position of makers and creators in the fashion value chain. These shifts raise considerations concerning ownership of intellectual property and acknowledgement of intangible local cultural expressions. Collaborations between agile design-driven enterprises in diverse markets are complex and intellectual property is leveraged as the project evolves. Localisation in fashion promotes craft techniques, cultural symbols and manipulation of local materials and poses questions on how to ensure that everyone involved in the process is fairly rewarded and recognised. Supply chain transparency requires recognition of each supplier's contribution to the value creation of the finished fashion artefact. This raises questions concerning the negotiation process and tenets of value creation. The research is empirical and draws on case studies of fashion collaborations where value creation and intellectual property were identified and negotiated with all stakeholders. Qualitative data was collected from interviews with the micro-enterprises, rather than the overseas artisan producers due to limited access. The findings identified how intellectual property thinking can be used to underpin business strategy and create value for micro enterprises in complex, collaborative projects.