THE STRUCTURE OF NEARSHORE CURRENTS DRIVEN BY CHANGES IN METEO-MARINE FORCINGS

Abstract

This work aims to better understand the physical processes governing the wave propagation in a vertically sheared current and the resulting nearshore circulation patterns. It is based on a high resolution hydro-morphodynamic field campaign, ROUSTY2014, collecting a comprehensive hydro-morphodynamical dataset during a full winter season. The overall analysis highlights three main circulation patterns, largely controled by the bathymetric features and by co-working or competing wind and waves forcings. Regarding the vertical structuration of the circulation, most of field observations shown seaward directed circulation with onshore component close to the air/sea surface whose intensity varies according to incoming wave conditions. Forth, vertical shear increase when breaking happen close to sensor location and orientation of mean circulation depend on wind direction.