Mathematical theory about sand waves and its application on Dutch Wadden Isle of Vlieland

Abstract

Mathematical theory is given which enables, under certain conditions, to predict future development of coastal area from series of yearly measurements of high water-and low water-line; theory has been applied on island coastal area in Netherlands; it is shown that direction of propagation of sand-waves is not necessarily direction of sand transport; sandwaves attenuate in direction of propagation and indicate variability of littoral drift in course of time. (05437)