1900年至2000

Abstract

摘要 英文摘要 Taiwanese local cultural study has been predominating these years. Hakka study prospers in the sphere of local cultural study. Due to the idiosyncrasy of Hakka culture, the study of Hakka life style in Mainland China was initiated since 19th century. So far the studies of Hakkas origin and migration are well done. This research focuses on Hakka female attire. The purposes of this research are: 1) to investigate the characteristics of Hakka female attire by means of customs, life style and culture; 2) to scrutinize the reasons of different Hakka female attires because of northern/ southern location and historical changes. The methodology of this research is archive investigation in history study. The documents are collected from the archive since Ching Dynasty, scholars researches, relevant papers and newspapers. The pictures are from museums, connoisseurs, researchers publishing, old photos, newspapers and magazines. Moreover, There is field study to interview old people to know the past life style, customs and attires in Hakka residence, such as Taoyuan, Miaoli, Liudui in Kaohsiung, Pintung area. Some old photos and attires are copied, photographed and measured. Taiwanese Hakka emigrated from the connection area of three provincesFujian, Jiangxi, Guangdong since Ming and Ching Dynasty. In this way, the customs are derived from Hakka people in Mainland China. They lived on agriculture and dressed the same with Hakka people in Mainland China at that time. Hakka traditional female attire before 1945 includes du-dou, da-jin-shan, da-dan-ku. The major differences from other ethnic groups are hairstyle and shoes. San-ba-tou is Hakka female hairstyle in formal dress, and the pattern is high. As for the shoes, Hakka women wear normal sandals because they dont have foot-bindings like Han women and Min-nan women. Therefore, hairstyle and shoes are Hakka characteristics in terms of ethnicity. The major differences of northern and southern Hakka traditional female attires are full length, sleeve length, collar decoration and color. 1) Full length of southern female attire is longer than knees, while the northern only covers bottoms. 2) Sleeve length of the southern female attire is longer than arms, so women have to fold the sleeves, while the northern sleeve length is three-quarter to long length. 3) As for collar decoration, southern bound is from front piece to side seam, named lan-gan, while northern beside the neckline and front opening are with same-cloth bound and face hem. Few formal dresses are with different-color bound. 4) In terms of color, southern female attires are almost blue or black, while northern attires are various, blue, black, dun and patterned cloth. The styles of attire change with time. In Taiwan, no matter in the north or in the south, Hakka traditional female attire isnt as prevalent as before. The main reasons are: 1) the vogue of westernization in colonial era, 2) the pursuit for modernization after establishing Republic of China, 3) the Japanization program during World War II, 4) the popularity of mandarin dress and western thought after 1945. Nowadays traditional Hakka female attires are merely seen in festivals, activities, and fashion style. 論文目次 第一章 緒論 1 第一節 研究背景與動機 1 第二節 研究目的 2 第三節 研究範圍與方法 2 第四節 文獻探討 3 第五節 名詞解釋 4 第二章 台灣客家之歷史與文化 6 第一節 客家源流 6 第二節 客家人遷台開台之過程 9 第一項 南部客家人遷台開台之過程 9 第二項 北部客家人遷台開台之過程 12 第三節 客家民系生活方式之探討 15 第一項 生活環境 15 第二項 客家物質文化概況 16 第三章 台灣客家婦女服飾 18 第一節 材質運用 18 第一項 纖維 18 第二項 布料 20 第二節 服飾類型及基本構成製作方法 23 第一項 頭部裝飾 24 第二項 上衣 33 第三項 下裳 39 第四項 鞋 42 第二節 生命禮俗中的服裝 45 第一項 嬰幼兒時期 45 第二項 結婚 46 第三項 葬禮 49 第四節 裝飾風格 51 第一項 色彩 51 第二項 緄邊與刺繡 53 第四章 客家婦女服飾之差異與演變 56 第一節 客家文化與服裝之關係 56 第一項 文化特色 56 第二項 服裝對於客家人的意義 56 第三項 服裝特性 57 第二節 南北客家婦女服裝的差異 60 第一項 南北客家款式之差異 60 第二項 差異形成之可能性 63 第三節 客家婦女服裝的演變 64 第一項 演變情況 65 第二項 客家婦女服飾的現況與未來 72 第五章 結論與建議 74 第一節 研究結論 74 第二節 研究限制與未來研究建議 75 第一項 研究限制 75 第二項 未來研究建議 76 參考文獻 78 附錄一 台灣傳統服裝演變簡表 83 附錄二 採訪記錄 87

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