Stokes waves in water with a non-flat bed

Abstract

We investigate the relevance of Stokes waves for the propagation of ocean swell in the absence of strong currents. By providing estimates for the depth of the near-surface layer to which the main effects of a Stokes flow are confined, we show that wind-generated uniform wave trains can be modelled as Stokes waves over a fictitious flat bed, immersed in the water. Throughout the lower parts of this layer the deviations of the flow from a pure current are negligible. ©2014 Cambridge University Press.