Performativity of gender identities in fashion. Stereotypes’ impact in Vogue and GQ

Abstract

The objective of this paper is to study diversity, inclusion, and stereotypes in international fashion magazines aimed at female or male audiences, analyzing the representations and discourse conveyed in them. It is an analysis that aims to uncover the stereotypes and ambiguities of current social changes. In a first phase (F1), we applied a mixed content analysis methodology to the cover images (n1=120) disseminated in 2020 through the Instagram accounts of Vogue and GQ, in the context of the United States and Europe. In a second one (F2), we structured an expert panel (n2=14) consisting of designers with their own brand, members of creative teams from international firms, and directors of modeling agencies to discuss the results obtained in the first phase. A preliminary analysis of the results showed, on the one hand, that beauty stereotypes continue to dominate the covers of fashion magazines, although there is certain openness towards inclusivity and diversity, especially in female publications, while male magazines continue to show an image of man subject to the classic canon, but with a tendency towards change.