Rheological, texture, and sensory analyses and in vivo clinical efficacy of cosmetic formulations containing ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate

Abstract

Cosmetics with anti-aging effects using ingredients of sustainable origin are increasing in the cosmetic market. This study aimed to evaluate the physical-mechanical and sensory properties and immediate clinical efficacy of cosmetic formulations with ingredients from natural sources to which were added or not (vehicle only) ascorbic acid (AAS) or ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (ATIP). The preliminary stability, physical-mechanical properties, rheology texture profile, and sensory analysis were performed. In addition, immediate clinical effects in terms of skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin microrelief were investigated on the forearms and in the faces of nineteen subjects by noninvasive biophysical and skin imaging techniques. There were slight changes in the formulations with AAS submitted to thermal stress, but they were stable under ambient temperature. All formulations were effective in skin hydration. Serums and gel cream with ATIP decreased TEWL but did not significantly change the microrelief parameters. The serum achieved good sensory acceptance and parameters were correlated to those obtained by the texturometer. The best performance was from serum with ATIP, whereas gel cream was not well accepted. Therefore, results showed a correlation between physical-mechanical and sensorial properties, in addition to better stability and acceptance of the fat-soluble form of vitamin C.