New Application of Fatty Acids and Their Derivatives to Cosmetics

Abstract

Fatty acids and their derivatives which have been used as soap, emollients and nonionic surfactants for cosmetics, are required to be more functional in order to meet the demand of consumers today. As important roles of certain lipids for epidermal barrier function have been clarified recently by dermatological studies, fatty acids and their derivatives like linoleic acid and fatty acid cholesterol esters can be expected to use as functional cosmetic ingredients to improve skin condition. In this paper, the roles of linoleic acid and fatty acid cholesterol esters, and their cosmetic application were reviewed. Fatty acids as percutaneous absorption enhancers and liposome as cosmetic ingredients were also described. 1 ‚Í ‚ ¶ ‚ß ‚É •Å‹ß ‚Ì •• •Ï •i ‚Í,˜V ‰»-h Ž~,•Û Ž¼,"ü "',Ž ‡ ŠO•ü-hŽ~ ‚È ‚Ç ‚Ì ‹@"\ •« ‚ð 'O-Ê ‚É ‰Ÿ ‚µ •o ‚µ ‚½ ‚à ‚Ì ‚ª '½ ‚-‚È ‚Á‚Ä ‚¢ ‚é •B •‚- ŽÐ‰ï‚Ì "ž-ˆ‚ð •T ‚¦ ‚Ä,•• •Ï •i ‚Í 'P ‚ÉŠOOE© ‚ð "ü ‚µ ‚-‚· ‚é ‚AE‚¢ ‚¤ ‚¾‚¯ ‚Å‚È ‚-,Žá ‚³ ‚ð •Û‚¿ •S •g ‚Ì OE'•NˆÛŽ• ‚É•v OE£‚· ‚é ‚AE‚¢ ‚Á‚½-ð Š" ‚ª Šú'Ò ‚³ ‚ê ‚é ‚ae ‚¤ ‚É ‚È ‚Á‚Ä ‚« ‚½ ‚ae ‚¤ ‚É Žv‚¦ ‚é1)•B ‚» ‚± ‚ÅŽg-p ‚· ‚é OE´-¿‚É‚Â ‚¢ ‚Ä‚Í,•@•]-ˆ ‚É ‚à '• ‚µ ‚Ä‹@"\ •« ‚ð-L‚µ ‚½‚à ‚Ì ‚ª ‹• ‚ß ‚ç ‚ê ‚é ‚ae ‚¤ ‚É ‚È ‚Á ‚Ä ‚« ‚½•B ˆê •û ‚Å•• •Ï •i ‚Ì OE´-¿‚͈À¿‚͈À'S •« ‚âˆÀ‚âˆÀ'è •« ‚É-â'è ‚ª ‚È ‚-,•i Ž¿‚ªˆêŽ¿‚ªˆê 'è ‚µ ‚Ä‚¢ ‚é ‚à ‚Ì ‚Å‚È ‚¯ ‚ê ‚Î ‚È ‚ç ‚È ‚¢ •B ‚Ü ‚½•V‹K‚È OE´-¿‚É‚Â ‚¢ ‚Ä‚Í-ò Ž-@‚È ‚Ç-@‹K‚É Šî ‚¢ ‚Ä,•@ ‹K Ši ‚ð 'è ‚ß "Å•« ‚â "ç • † ŽhOEƒ•« ‚Ì "_ ‚Å-â 'è ‚Ì ‚È ‚¢ ‚± ‚AE‚ð •[ •ª Šm"F ‚µ ‚½•ã ‚Å•• •Ï •i ‚É"z • ‡ ‚µ ‚¤ ‚é ‹-‰Â ‚ð Žó‚¯ ‚é •K-v‚ª ‚ ‚é •B ‚³ ‚Ä,Ž‰-b Ž_‚â ‚» ‚Ì-U "± 'Ì ‚Í OEÂ-‚© ‚ç •• •Ï •i ‚Ì OE´-¿‚AE ‚µ‚ÄŽg-p‚³ ‚ê ‚Ä‚¢ ‚é •BŽ‰-b Ž_‚Ì-˜-p‚ɂ‚¢ ‚Ä•l ‚¦ ‚Ä‚Ý‚é ‚AE,•… Ž_‰» ƒJ ƒŠƒEƒ€ ‚â ƒgƒŠƒGƒ^ ƒm•[ ƒ‹ ƒA ƒ~ƒ" ‚AE‚Ì •¹-p‚Å ƒZ ƒbƒP ƒ"‚ð • ¶ •¬ ‚µ ‚» ‚ê ‚ð "û ‰» •Ü ‚AE‚µ‚ÄŽg-p ‚· ‚é ‚± ‚AE‚ª ‚» ‚Ì Žå‚È-ð Š" ‚Å‚ ‚ë ‚¤ •B ‚Ü‚½-U "± 'Ì ‚AE‚µ‚Ä ‚Í,ƒ\ ƒ‹ ƒr ƒ^ ƒ" ‚â ƒOƒŠƒZ ƒŠƒ"‚È ‚Ç‚Ì ƒ| ƒŠƒI •[ ƒ‹ ‚AE Ž‰-b Ž_ ‚AE‚Ì ƒGƒXƒe ƒ‹ ‚Å ‚ ‚é "ñ ƒCƒI ƒ"ŠE-Ê Šˆ•Šˆ•« •Ü ‚ª "û ‰» •Ü ‚AE‚µ ‚Ä "Ä-p‚³ ‚ê ‚Ä‚¢ ‚é •B ƒOƒŠƒZ ƒŠƒ"‚â '· •½ ƒAƒ‹ ƒR•[ ƒ‹ ‚AE Ž‰-b Ž_ ‚Ì ƒGƒXƒe ƒ‹ ‚Í 'Y‰» •… 'f ‚â "V'R-û Ž‰ ‚AE‚È ‚ç ‚ñ ‚Å-û •« OE´-¿‚AE‚µ‚Ä ‚à-p ‚¢ ‚ç ‚ê ‚Ä‚¢ ‚é •B ‚à ‚¿ ‚ë ‚ñ ‚± ‚Ì ‚ae ‚¤ ‚È-ð Š" ‚Í •¡ OEã‚à•Ï ‚í ‚é ‚± ‚AE ‚È ‚-•d-v‚Å‚ ‚ë ‚¤ •B ‚µ‚© ‚µ,ˆÀ 'S ‚Å‚©‚‹@"\ •« ‚Ì •‚ ‚¢ OE´-¿ ‚ª ‹• ‚ß ‚ç ‚ê ‚Ä‚¢ ‚é •ó ‹µ ‚ð •l ‚¦ ‚ê ‚Î,•L ‚-•e ‚µ ‚Ü‚ê ‚Ä‚¢ ‚é Ž‰-b Ž_‚â-U "± 'Ì ‚Ì ‚ae ‚è‹@"\ "I ‚È ‰ž-p ‚ª-] ‚Ü‚ê ‚é ‚AE‚± ‚ë ‚Å‚ ‚é •B ˆê •û ,‹ß "N• ¶ 'Ì ‚Ì • § OEä‚â •î •ñ "` 'B ‚É ŠÖ‚· ‚é Ž‰ Ž¿‚¨‚ae‚ÑŽ¿‚¨‚ae‚Ñ ŠÖ˜A•¨ Ž¿‚Ì •d-v •« ‚ª '½ ‚-•ñ •• ‚³ ‚ê ‚Ä‚¢ ‚é ‚ª,"ç • † ‰È Šw‚Ì •ª-ì ‚Å ‚à,-á ‚¦ ‚Î ƒZƒ‰ƒ~ ƒh‚â ƒRƒOE ƒXƒe ƒ• •[ ƒ‹ ‚È ‚Ç‚Ì Ž‰ Ž¿ ‚ª •\ "ç ‚Ì •ÛŽ¼‚â ƒo ƒŠƒ" •[ ‹@"\ ‚É•s ‰Â OE ‡‚Å‚ ‚é ‚± ‚AE‚ª •ñ •• ‚³ ‚ê '•-Ú‚³ ‚ê ‚Ä‚¢ ‚é •B ‚» ‚µ‚Ä•• •Ï •i •ª-ì ‚Å‚Í,‚± ‚Ì ‚ae ‚¤ ‚È •ª Žq ƒOE ƒx ƒ‹ ‚Å‚Ì ‹@•\ ‰ð-¾‚ÉŠî ‚Ã ‚-• ‡-•"I ‚È•» •i •ÝOEv‚ª •i ‚ß ‚ç ‚ê ‚Â‚Â‚ ‚è,•Û Ž¼,"ü "' ‚â˜V‰»‚â˜V‰»-hŽ~ ‚È ‚Ç‚É‚©‚©‚í ‚é-L OEø•¬ •ª ‚AE •À ‚ñ ‚Å,Ž‰-b Ž_‚â ‚» ‚Ì-U "± 'Ì ‚ð ŠÜ‚ß ‚½Ž‰ Ž¿-Þ ‚Ì ‹@"\ •« ‚ª •d Ž‹ ‚³ ‚ê Žn ‚ ‚Ä ‚¢ ‚é •B ‚Ü‚½,-û Ž‰ ‹y ‚ÑŽ‰ Ž¿ ŠÖ˜A‚Ì • ‡ •¬ •E•¸ •» ‹Z•p ‚Ì •i •à ‚É ‚ae ‚è,•]-ˆ"¾‚é ‚± ‚AE‚Ì ‚Å ‚« ‚È ‚© ‚Á‚½Ž_‰»ˆÀ‚Á‚½Ž_‰»ˆÀ 'è •« ‚âˆÀ‚âˆÀ 'S •« 53