The influence of beach porosity on wave uprush and backwash

Abstract

Packwood, A.R., 1983. The influence of beach porosity on wave uprush and backwash. Coastal Eng., 7: 29-40. A numerical model is described to calculate the influence of a porous bed on the run-up of a bore on a gently sloping sandy beach. It is shown that fine-medium grade sands have very little effect in the run-up phase. Significant differences between impermeable and porous bed solutions are found in the backwash which might explain certain sand erosion and deposition phenomena. © 1983.