Symposium review: The Mozzarella/pasta filata years: A tribute to David M. Barbano

Abstract

In the decades that followed the end of World War II, Mozzarella cheesemaking in the United States grew steadily as the pizza restaurant established an ever-expanding footprint across America and beyond. By the 1980s, Mozzarella cheesemaking had attained unprecedented scales of production, yet even as new cheese plants were coming on line across the country and production capacities were reaching extraordinary levels, the scientific and technological knowledge base needed to standardize production schedules, control product quality, and maximize cheese yields and efficiency lagged far behind industry needs. It was within this historical context that David Barbano turned his systematic and meticulous research program toward the needs of the Mozzarella cheese industry during the 1980s. By the early 1990s, Barbano was leading a team of graduate students, post-docs, technical staff, and collaborators in a systematic evaluation of every step in the Mozzarella cheesemaking process. The end product of these studies was nothing less than the transformation of what had been (to a large degree) a poorly understood “black box” process into a precisely controlled make procedure that lent itself to precision tailoring of cheese functionality, tight control over manufacturing schedules and efficiency, and maximization of cheese yields. Barbano's international collaborators included research scientists from Italy, where Mozzarella originated. Working with them, Barbano led a systematic evaluation of the scientific and technological aspects of Ragusano cheese, a traditional Protected Designation of Origin pasta filata cheese from Sicily. In the process, Barbano's team demonstrated a new approach to traditional artisanal practices that merged both the art and science of cheesemaking, in effect combining the best of both worlds, toward the goal of sustaining traditional cheesemakers and the working landscapes that they support. Throughout all of these studies, Barbano's research led to innovations in cheesemaking technology (such as improved salting methods, preacidification treatments, and strategies to improve low-fat Mozzarella functionality) that have revolutionized the Mozzarella industry worldwide.