The Smelling Principle of Vetiver Oil, Unveiled by Chemical Synthesis

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Abstract

Vetiver oil, produced on a multiton-scale from the roots of vetiver grass, is one of the finest and most popular perfumery materials, appearing in over a third of all fragrances. It is a complex mixture of hundreds of molecules and the specific odorant, responsible for its characteristic suave and sweet transparent, woody-ambery smell, has remained a mystery until today. Herein, we prove by an eleven-step chemical synthesis, employing a novel asymmetric organocatalytic Mukaiyama–Michael addition, that (+)-2-epi-ziza-6(13)en-3-one is the active smelling principle of vetiver oil. Its olfactory evaluation reveals a remarkable odor threshold of 29 picograms per liter air, responsible for the special sensuous aura it lends to perfumes and the quasi-pheromone-like effect it has on perfumers and consumers alike.

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Ouyang, J., Bae, H., Jordi, S., Dao, Q. M., Dossenbach, S., Dehn, S., … List, B. (2021). The Smelling Principle of Vetiver Oil, Unveiled by Chemical Synthesis. Angewandte Chemie - International Edition, 60(11), 5666–5672. https://doi.org/10.1002/anie.202014609

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