Benefits of a Pequi Oil Formulation for Skin: A Clinical Study Using Instrumental Measurements and Sensorial Perception

Abstract

Pequi (Caryocar brasiliense) oil is a lipid-rich natural ingredient with potential cosmetic applications, but its time-dependent clinical effects on skin remain underexplored. This study aimed to characterize pequi oil using GC-MS, develop a minimalist serum formulation containing the oil, and evaluate its immediate, short-term, and long-term clinical efficacy, as well as perceived efficacy. A serum with 3% pequi oil (SPO) and a vehicle control (SV) were developed and tested in twenty healthy female participants (22–30 years). Stratum corneum water content, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and sebum content were measured on the malar region at baseline (t0) and after 2 h (t2h), 7 days (t7d), and 28 days (t28d) of application. Porphyrin count and sebaceous gland activity were assessed at t7d and t28d and skin microrelief at t28d. GC-MS revealed oleic acid (55.89%) and palmitic acid (34.90%) as the oil’s main constituents. SPO reduced TEWL and increased skin hydration at t2h and t28d compared to baseline values (p < 0.05). At t28d, SPO significantly reduced oily spots and porphyrin scores and improved skin microrelief. Long-term perceived efficacy indicated better hydration, oil control, and skin feel compared with SV. These findings suggest that pequi oil reduced sebum content and sebaceous gland activity, thereby enhancing skin barrier function, hydration, microrelief, and hydrolipidic balance, supporting its potential as an effective cosmetic ingredient.