Two- and three-dimensional computation of solitary wave runup on non-plane beach

Abstract

Solitary wave runup on a non-plane beach is studied analytically and numerically. For the theoretical approach, nonlinear shallow-water theory is applied to obtain the analytical solution for the simplified bottom geometry, such as an inclined channel whose cross-slope shape is parabolic. It generalizes Carrier-Greenspan approach for long wave runup on the inclined plane beach that is currently used now. For the numerical study, the Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) system is applied to study soliton runup on an inclined beach and the detailed characteristics of the wave processes (water displacement, velocity field, turbulent kinetic energy, energy dissipation) are analyzed. In this study, it is theoretically and numerically proved that the existence of a parabolic cross-slope channel on the plane beach causes runup intensification, which is often observed in post-tsunami field surveys.