Assessment of Nearshore Wave Climate off the Southern Coast of Sri Lanka

Abstract

Numerical modelling of wave propagation was carried out to assess the variability of nearshore wave climate off the southern coast of Sri Lanka. The modelling was based on the application of MIKE 21 SW (FM) model in a domain covering the entire southern coast and part of the south eastern coast of Sri Lanka, with the offshore boundary located in the deep sea. Based on model results, a wave transformation matrix approach was used to transform the available wave data from three past wave recording locations, to desired locations. Swell and sea wave systems were considered separately with appropriate wind fields introduced to model sea wave propagation. The study resulted in the establishment of nearshore wave statistics on a seasonal basis for coastal sectors along the model domain. These wave statistics are useful in obtaining necessary design parameters for any planned coastal and marine structures within these coastal sectors through the application of local area models.