Recycling technologies for enabling sustainability transitions of the fashion industry: status quo and avenues for increasing post-consumer waste recycling

Abstract

A major environmental issue of the rise in garment production is a steep increase of textile waste. At the same time, recycling technologies appear to be promising avenues for sustainability transitions of the fashion industry. This article examines the chances and challenges of scaling recycling technologies for textiles and considers the collection and sorting processes as well as the actual reuse. Drawing on case studies and expert interviews, the results indicate current obstacles and opportunities for accelerating diffusion of recycling technologies. Various initiatives are promising, however industry structures, garment designs, and business models need to be re-orientated and re-aligned to accelerate these recycling concepts. Applying the greenwashing notion that acknowledges co-creation by producers and consumers, the article critically argues that the focus on recycled polyester bottles for garments distorts incentives to improve other recycling technologies and masks the true cost of textile-waste recycling. Instead, fashion-brand companies and retailers should leverage their market power to foster sustainability standards in the global recycling industry.