Análisis cualitativo de las implicaciones musculares de la escalada deportiva de alto nivel en competición. (Qualitative Study of high level sport climbing muscular involvement in competition).

Abstract

The purpose of the current study was to analyse the muscular contractions carried out by the high level climbers in competition. The sample studied was made up of 72 male subjects ("on sight"-level 5.12c/5.13a) who participated in the Spanish Climbing Cup of 2009 and 2010. 7738 movements were registered to analyse them. The observational model used was designed and validated through a previous study. Answer levels were: action, corporal position, limb, time, time zone, start of movement, end of movement and movement. The results obtained establish that the most important muscles for high level climbers are, apart from abdominal muscles, extensors, adductors and horizontal extensors' muscles of the shoulder, flexors and rotators' muscles of the elbow, extensors, adductors, abductors, internal and external rotators' muscles of the hip and extensors' muscles of the knee. However, the type of the muscular contraction generated depends on the type of the movement required. The information given might be useful to plan more personalized training programs in order to improve the climber's performance.