Effect of thread structure on tension peaks during lock stitch sewing

Abstract

A dynamic sewing tension study was carried out with a tension probe on sewing threads with different structures, physical and tensile characteristics in a single needle lock stitch sewing machine. The needle thread recorded four major tension peaks corresponding to events occurring during sewing; bobbin thread withdrawal, stitch tightening, needle piercing the fabric and tightening of the needle thread around the shuttle, among which stitch tightening caused the maximum tension for all threads. Polyester filament and spun polyester threads exhibited the highest and lowest tightening tension, respectively. Multiple regression analysis showed that pre-tension and elastic modulus show positive influences while tex, bending, rigidity and compressibility of threads show negative effects on tension peaks during tightening and needle piercing. Sewing speed shows a positive impact only on the tension peak due to needle piercing. Pre-tension showed a prominent influence on tension peaks on all threads while the number of fabric layers failed to show any effect. © AUTEX.