Rederivation of the saturation range in the frequency spectrum of wind-generated gravity waves.

Abstract

The range in the frequency spectrum of wind-generated waves is rederived. Laboratory and theoretical work show that wave braking is the result of kinematc nstability, suggesting that wave cererity s the governing parameter in the saturation range. Using similarity arguments, a general formulation is rederived giving the wave profile spectrum SETA(OMEGA) A OMEGASUB-SUB5 in deep water as derived by Phillips and SETA(OMEGA) A OMEGASUB-SUB3 spectral transfer function. In both deep and shallow water the horizontal velocity spectrum SETA (OMEGA) A OMEGA SUB-SUB3. Wave and velocity measurements made in deep and shallow water are presented showing agreement with theory. (A)