A novel tool and training methodology for improving finger strength in rock climbers

Abstract

Recently a novel finger strength training tool for rock climbers, the Rock Prodigy Training Center (RPTC) and its associated training protocol, the Rock Prodigy Method (RPM) were developed. The RPTC incorporates several innovations that improve upon similar, traditional devices to provide a sport-specific, repeatable method for improving finger strength in climbers, and to improve overall climbing performance. After several months of use by climbers around the world, the efficacies of these tools were evaluated by comparing pre- and post-training climbing performance. Training and performance data are presented from 118 athletes which clearly demonstrate that the RPTC and RPM are highly effective at increasing sport-specific finger strength. Finger strength improved an average of 21.5% after only 4 weeks of training, and overall climbing ability improved an average of 2.5 Yosemite Decimal System letter grades after using these training tools.