MODELLING WAVE TRANSFORMATION ACROSS A FRINGING REEF USING SWASH

Abstract

This paper presents the application of the open source non-hydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH to wave propagation over a fringing reef, and the results are discussed and compared with observations obtained from a laboratory experiment subjected to various incident wave conditions. This study focus not only on wave breaking, bottom friction, and wave-induced setup and runup, but also on the generation and propagation of infragravity waves beyond the reef crest. Present simulations demonstrate the overall predictive capabilities of the model for a typical coral reef with steep slopes and extended reef flats.