Strategies in using numerical wave models in ocean/coastal applications

Abstract

The objective of the present work is to illustrate the performances of the numerical wave models in ocean and coastal environment. Third generation wave models are considered nowadays the most appropriate for such task. These are full spectral models based on the integration on the wave energy (or alternatively wave action) balance equation. In order to cover more aspects related with the modelling process hindcast, nowcast and forecast schemes are discussed and illustrated along six case studies. The major model used was SWAN (acronym for Simulating Waves Nearshore) which is a very flexible model that can be applied in a wide range of coastal applications being effective from high resolution coastal areas up to quasi oceanic scales. In both hindcasts and forecasts the wave forcing was provided by generation models (WAM and WW3), while in nowcast schemes buoy data were used. Various coastal environments that are rather different from the point of view of the bathymétrie features and of the characteristics of the environmental matrix were considered. These are the Portuguese continental nearshore with higher resolution sub domains, Madeira Archipelago, the nearshore of Sardinia Island in the Mediterranean Sea and the Black Sea. A general conclusion of this work would be that, despite some limitations, the wave models provide an effective framework in predicting wave conditions in ocean and coastal environment.